![]() It was definitely much more than I had the first time around though. I had a real good boil going and then dropped to an very very gentle boil as everyone has describe. I left the lid on until I saw 212 and then removed it. It was boiling vigorously this time around by the time it got to 209 F. This time around I put the lid on and sealed it while it heated to a boil. My calibrated thermometer read 109.5 F and it was reading 110 actual temp on the foundry, so that seems to be pretty good to me. I filled it up to 6 gallons with hot water from the tap and decided to take a reading before heating it up. I took atmopheric pressure into consideration as mentioned since a cold front was moving in when I tested it out and decided to do another test today. Now that I have a better understanding of how it works. Hence the c shape of bubbles at the bottom of my kettle, so that is good to know. Thank you guys! So it looks like the heating elements are c shaped like bent brewer was saying and seeing the pictures in that link. Covering part of the top did bring the foundry to a decent boil and unless you are in a cold area, the boil continues. I have had good luck setting the lid over about half of the top and removing it when the wort starts boiling. I am sure that putting the lid on with the center off would give you a good boil but I doubt the opening would give enough ventilation to prevent a boil over. On another note, I wonder if using the lid with the center off would allow enough ventilation to boil off DMS, but still trap enough heat to give a good boil?[/QUOT I'm really looking forward to brewing on this, but don't want to waste time and money if its not working correctly. Hardly could call it a simmer and definitely not a boil. It's just flat surface water as I watched small bubbles rise from the bottom. My concern is that I'm not even really getting a simmer, which is making me think something is defective. I let it run to mimic a 90 minute boil, and I "boiled" off, or at least evaporated about a gallon of water, so the numbers were accurate. What is that the unit starts heating the water immediately (light on display stays on, fan spins, and water temp on read out keeps climbing) even though I though I had set the timer for 5 hours away. Is this what I should be seeing? Or should I see a count down timer to when the water needs to be heated up? The display returns to my current water temp, the target water temp, and 100% power. I press + until I get to 5H and press % Power again for a few sec. I press and hold % Power for a few second until 1H is displayed. I assume because the unit just switched on the element at 100% and is trying to reach my target temp. Press %Power to go from solid OFF to blinking OFFĪt this point, after 100% blinks a few times, a fan switches on and start making noise. Press + sign to get to 120F (water temp in the unit is 57F) just the same grain basket handle problem other people are having) I cannot figure out the delay timer. I am testing my new 10.5 Foundry system ahead of the first brew day and while everything seems to be working fairly well (no leaks, no sharp edges, etc.
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